Janet Poppendieck Caps Off Spring 2013 Gastronomy Lecture Series
By Bethy Whalen
Janet Poppendieck opened her dynamic lecture on universal free school meals last Tuesday, April 2, by telling her audience that the total number of meals provided by school breakfast and lunch programs in America tops 7.5 billion every year. As it stands now, the cost of these meals is stratified and falls into one of three categories: free, reduced price, or full price. Poppendieck’s ultimate goal would be the establishment of universal free school meals, available to all, that integrates food into children’s school day curriculum and coursework. As a student in public elementary school in the early 90s, I began to think back to my elementary days – did I remember what the food was like? Did I know who had free or reduced price meals? As kids, would anyone know the difference?
Poppendieck didn’t discuss what was on the lunch tray as much as she talked about the function of the school meal within the school day. The talk outlined the themes from Poppendieck's most recent book, Free For All, and focused on how we could reorient the policies and programs we currently have to create a different attitude around lunch period in schools. Using a mnemonic device of her creation (“The Seven Deadly In-s”), Poppendieck outlined the many reasons why the tiered school food payment/ reimbursement policies are not working. For example, the “in-dignity” of having free or reduced lunch, the “in-accuracy” of the current system, and the “in-efficiency” of using staff time to ensure the reams of paperwork are filled out correctly. Perhaps the most important point here is that financial means testing for families is out-of-place in public educational settings and interferes with students ability to learn and develop.
Poppendieck described the school cafeteria and kitchen as an intersection. “A place where concerns about poverty, hunger, and health intersect concerns about education and student development, and concerns about the environment, sustainability of our food system, and the economy.” By serving food instead of selling it, universal free lunch program could promote a better diet, food education, and health awareness among kids. Poppendieck gave one example of a Social Studies class that worked with the school kitchen to serve a variety of grains (wheat, rice, teff, quinoa) from different regions of the world as part of their school project. Curriculum like these that integrate foods in the cafeteria with lessons in the classroom could make eating school lunch a more purposeful part of the day and connect food with the broader learning experience.
At the end of the lecture, there was an extensive Q & A, illustrating the interest and connection that many in the audience had with school lunch programs. Poppendieck was frank about the challenges faced by dining directors who must satisfy the appetites of children, achieve nutrition guidelines, negotiate with vendors, and maintain budgets. Even still she insisted we can and should change the experience of eating at school from one that is necessary (but underappreciated), to one that is integral to each child learning experience. When facing the vastness of problems with our food system, diet, and health today, Janet Poppendieck may not have all the answers, but she’s got some pretty good ideas on where to start.
Bethy Whalen is a first year gastronomy student with a strong interest is food policy and national school lunch reform.
Gastronomy Lecture Series: Janet Poppendieck discusses her most recent book
Please join us for the final installment of the Gastronomy at BU Spring 2013 Lecture Series Tuesday, April 2 at 6pm. Lectures are free and open to the public...
Québec Webinar & Information Session Today at 4:30 PM
Follow this link to learn more, sign up, and attend this webinar online.
ML713 Agricultural History: A Gastronomy Student’s Perspective
By: Susan Brassard
This spring 2013 semester, the Gastronomy Program is offering a seminar course focusing on the agricultural history of America, taught by Professor Sarah Phillips. The format of the course is built around several core readings that take an in-depth, historical look into the agricultural heritage within settlements in the American Northeast, Midwest, and South. The broad relevance of the course gives it appeal not only students of the gastronomy program, but also those majoring in history, policy, and the environment. The diversity of students promotes a wide range of discussion during weekly course gatherings.
The opening reading for this course was Brian Donahue’s The Great Meadow: Farmers and the Land in Colonial Concord. The book offers an interesting look into the growth of agriculture and subsequent development of the land in Massachusetts. Readings expand from Concord’s wheat production to the tobacco fields of Virginia, from meat and grain industrialization in Chicago, to the cotton complex of the Mississippi Delta. Through readings and discussions, the course explores many interrelated themes including industrialization, expansion, crop selection, human labor, commodities, and government policy.
Students with an interest in current trends of organic foods, “green” business, and back-to-basics farming methods will thrive in this course. Deborah Fitzgerald’s Every Farm a Factory: The Industrial Ideal in American Agriculture describes how the American farm evolved into the industrial apparatus that we are ambivalently familiar with today. This text also reveals how small independent farms became susceptible to excessive financial risk through increased dependence on modern agricultural technology.
Whether you are interested specifically in agriculture, or more generally in food systems, US history, policy, or sociology, ML713 Agricultural History offers an excellent opportunity for a range of students to explore the interconnection of these topics. I’m looking forward to the remaining discussions of course topics as well as the prospect of delving into my final research assignment.
Susan Brassard is a first year MLA Gastronomy student, culinary arts and business instructor at Salter College in West Boylston, and the owner of The Violet Rose Cakes, Catering & Pastries (www.facebook.com/thevioletrosecakes).
Gastronomy Lecture Series – Diana Garvin talks about Italian Food Advertising
Please join us for the third installment of the Gastronomy at BU Spring 2013 Lecture Series Thursday, March 21 at 6pm. Lectures are free and open to the public... 
The 2013 International Boston Seafood Show
By Noel Bielaczyc
Each year sometime in March, as the waters of the Gulf of Maine begin to warm, an amazing migration takes place. Shoals of fishers, processors, distributors, retailers, sales people, chefs, and seafood enthusiasts congregate in the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center to exchange business cards and miniature crab cakes in the hopes of forging partnerships and relationships in the seafood industry. As a fishmonger and Gastronomy student, the International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) offers an irresistible mixture of food culture, global economics, fisheries policy, and limitless free samples of seafood in all forms.
The first impression one gets when entering the exhibition hall of the Seafood Show is total madness... And of course the overwhelming smell of cooked seafood. The enormous scale and diversity of exhibitors is astounding, and the accompanying crowds heave and swell through the maze of booths. Bags are provided for the reams of brochures, pamphlets, knick-knacks, and business cards, which even a choosy visitor will amass.
The Seafood Show is somewhat of a reflection of seafood consumption in American with a preponderance of exhibitors featuring farm-raised tilapia, salmon, and shrimp. Processed oven-ready products, the species they contain, and equipment to manufacture them, are by far the most common feature at the show. If you squint hard enough though, many smaller exhibitors begin to appear, some doing very interesting things.
One example is Schafer Fisheries in Thomson Illinois. They deal exclusively with freshwater fish from rivers and lakes of the upper Midwest, and have developed a market for the invasive Asian carp, which have proliferated in those waterways. While Americans universally thumb their noses at these species, a brisk export trade in Asian carp, buffalo fish and sheephead, makes this a lucrative fishery and important source of protein. Several other small fisheries were also looking to market underutilized marine products like sea cucumber, dogfish, and sea urchin, particularly in the face of reduced quotas on traditional species like cod.
The New England Aquarium’s (NEAq) booth focused on their Sustainable Seafood Programs and offered a variety of educational materials including their Seafood Choice Guide, which lists only best choices for both wild and farm raised species for a simplified set of guidelines that avoids the finger-pointing of “worst choice” recommendations. In addition to educational programs at the aquarium, NEAg partners with local chefs and restaurants to host Blue Plate Dinner events. Each meal highlights seasonal, sustainable and often underappreciated varieties of seafood from our local waters, like scup (porgy), surf clams, squid, and sardines.
A number other products caught my eye while exploring the booths. The most intriguing was small, vacuum packs of dried marine phytoplankton. Hand harvested from the pristine Veta La Palma Parque in Spain, this green powder is composed of millions of microscopic organisms that live suspended in the water column. It does seem ironic that the movement to eat further down on the food chain has literally reached the bottom-most trophic level in the ocean. Regardless, the briny, “ocean-like” flavor of plankton is highly regarded by chefs, who happily pay the premium price for this strange product.
The obligatory sampling of countless forms of seafood yielded a few highs and many lows. My favorite may have been the unadorned but delicious Jonah crab leg, which was neatly scored along key joints. Also very noteworthy were the smoked bay scallops from Ducktrap River of Maine and a single cold slice of raw geoduck from a Korean shellfish company. Among the various fried fish nuggets and deli cups of chowder, the least appealing thing to cross my lips was a cube of smoked sturgeon from a Chinese caviar company that was the temperature and texture of a greasy popsicle.
Looking beyond the giant plush polar bears, the custom “barracuda” chopper, and the "mermaid" models, the International Seafood Show is fascinating glimpse into the global seafood industry. This year’s show illustrated the huge (and expanding) importance of aquaculture as well as a growing awareness of issues related to sustainability. For anyone interested in food policy, media, business, or seafood in general, the IBSS is an eye-opening and stimulating experience. For information on next years show, visit http://www.bostonseafood.com.
Noel Bielaczyc is a first year Gastronomy MLA student and the spring 2013 editor of the Gastronomy at BU blog. He is also a fishmonger and scientific illustrator.
Spring Break!
Whether you're traveling afar or staying put, enjoy having a week off school. We'll be back in few days with a post on the International Boston Seafood Show and more. Stay Tuned... Happy cooking!
March Gastronomy Events
We have a busy second half of the semester planned! Please mark your calendars for the following, post-spring-break events:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 4:30 - 5:30PM
Milk and Cookies with Rachel Black Come say hello, meet other Gastronomy students, and discuss the semester – and have some milk and cookies.
Boston University Fuller Building (FLR) Room 109, 808 Commonwealth Avenue. This event is for current Gastronomy students only. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------SPRING 2012 Gastronomy at BU Lecture Series:
THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 6PM
A Fine Linea: How Italian Food Advertisements Reflected and Affected Gender Division Diana Garvin, PhD candidate, Italian Studies, Cornell University
Boston University College of Arts and Sciences Building (CAS), Room 211, 725 Commonwealth Avenue.
Lectures are free and open to the public. For more information contact gastrmla@bu.edu or see www.gastronomyatbu.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SATURDAY, MARCH 23, 2012
BU's American and New England Studies Program (AMNESP) Conference Beyond Production and Consumption: Refining American Material Culture Studies
For more information, see the official conference poster and registration form.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TUESDAY, MARCH 26, 4:00 - 5:45 PM
Life After Gastronomy: Part I "Pursuing The PhD"
Interested in continuing your educational journey beyond the MLA in Gastronomy? Join us for an information session and workshop to help you prepare a PhD application. BU Anthropology and History faculty will be on hand to answer questions and offer guidance. Fellow Gastronomy student Emily Contois will provide an applicants point-of-view. All students considering a PhD program are encouraged to attend. Please RSVP to Gastronomy Program Coordinator Barbara Rotger.
Boston University Fuller Building (FLR), Room 109, 808 Commonwealth Ave. For more information contact gastrmla@bu.edu or see www.gastronomyatbu.com. This is event is open to Gastronomy students only.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPRING 2012 Gastronomy at BU Lecture Series:
TUESDAY, APRIL 2, 6PM
Universal Free School Meals: An Ideas Whose Time Has Come Janet Poppendieck, Professor of Sociology, Emerita, Hunter College, City University of New York and the author of Free for All: Fixing School Food in America and Sweet Charity? Emergency Food and the End of Entitlement
Boston University College of Arts and Sciences Building (CAS), Room 211, 725 Commonwealth Avenue
Lectures are free and open to the public. For more information contact gastrmla@bu.edu or see www.gastronomyatbu.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please submit events to gastrmla@bu.edu.
A Sweet Taste of New England Foodways: Maple Syrup Production at the Ipswich River Nature Reserve
By Lauren Kouffman
Let’s be honest: there aren’t too many things that will get me out of bed before 9am on a Saturday morning. But a free, Sustainability @ BU-sponsored trip to see how maple syrup is produced (followed by an all-you-can-eat Flapjack Fling) made it hard for me to rationalize sleeping in.
Despite some trepidation about the day’s forecasted snowfall, we met at 9am at the George Sherman Student Union, to board our bus. Although I could easily see a gastronomy connection, I was surprised to see students from many other BU programs- a true interdisciplinary experience! Whether the draw was hands-on learning or the promise of unlimited Saturday morning pancakes, it was inspiring to see so many people learning about New England foodways.
We headed to the Mass Audubon Ipswich River Nature Reserve, in Topsfied, MA, where devoted volunteers spend the late winter season dutifully tapping maple trees on the Reserve’s 2,000+ acres of land. The sap they collect is refined on premises into maple syrup: “liquid gold”, they say. Since the process is so labor intensive, authentic and unadulterated maple syrup garners a much higher price at market than any generic brand. Maple syrup harvesters rely on the “rule of 86,” as it’s called: at a 1% sugar concentration, it takes approximately 86 gallons of unrefined maple sap to make just one gallon of A-grade syrup. Selling six and twelve-ounce bottles in the gift shop helps the Audubon Society reach its overarching goal of preserving the natural landscape for people and wildlife.
Our guide, Tony Salterno, lead us on a tour through the Reserve’s grounds, and taught us how to recognize a maple tree in the temperate forest: a maple’s gray, somewhat-smooth bark, and alternate-pattern branching are a dead giveaway. While many industrial-sized maple farms have nowadays instituted networks of rubber tubing to collect sap throughout the season, the Ipswich River Nature Reserve still relies on the traditional system of metal buckets, which need to be emptied every 6-8 hours, depending on temperature fluctuations.
Temperature, we learned, is the essential factor that can make or break a season for maple sugar harvesters. It’s the fluctuation between daily highs and nightly lows that causes the internal cells of the tree to expand and contract, pumping sap up and down through the xylem and phloem cells. The taps are driven into the tree trunk and just the right angle to intercept some of the sap during its twice-daily journey.
From the metal buckets, the unrefined maple sap is transferred to the “sugarhouse” where another volunteer carefully monitors the wood-fired boiling process, stirring constantly until the perfect consistency and color emerges. In the old days, syrup-makers would judge a batch’s doneness by its aroma and the amount of time it took for a dip of syrup to run off the back of a ladle; today, everything is controlled and measured by thermometers.
Wintery, early morning nature hikes are not my typical Saturday routine, but this was a truly interesting and engaging experience. Afterwards, our hosts graciously invited us in for a hearty and warming breakfast of fluffy flapjacks and sweet maple syrup. In the warmer months, they reminded us, we should return for a taste of hotdogs cooked in the maple sap, and maybe even spend a night camping on their amazing and peaceful grounds- just one of the perks of an Audubon Society membership. With the Ipswich Nature Reserve only an hour’s drive out of the city, I’ll definitely return for another unforgettable forest-to-table experience.
For visitor information on the Mass Audubon Ipswitch River Nature Reserve, call 978-887-9264, or email ipswichriver@massaudubon.org, or visit http://www.massaudubon.org/index.php
Lauren Kouffman is a first year MLA Gastronomy student, indiscriminate media enthusiast and snack fanatic. Follow her on Instagram for fancy food shots and silly Boston adventures @homeremedy.
Gastronomy lecture next week!
Please join us for the second installment of the Spring 2013 Gastronomy at BU Lecture Series. Lectures are free and open to the public.