Food news roundup: March 25
From around the web this week, a few bites of food news. Feel free to comment with thoughts, reactions and anything else of interest.
Japan's food contamination problem 'serious,' says WHO
Can city farmers make a living? Activist Eli Zigas on the challenges of urban agriculture
Minnesota acts against 'food club' milk seller
Amanda Hesser on how the new Google recipe search gets it wrong
ConAgra broadens campaign to fight child hunger
Genetically modified crops get a boost over organics with new USDA rulings
Graduating Project | Ilona Baughman’s A Touch of Spice: Eating, Exile and Identity

This is the first in a series of posts on the diverse range of projects our students undertake as a culmination of their Gastronomy studies. To write about your own graduating project, send an email to gastronomyatbu@gmail.com.
by Ilona Baughman
I came to the Gastronomy department, not surprisingly, with an abiding interest in many aspects of food. In the course of my studies, I found myself most particularly interested in food’s utility as a lens into culture. A class with chef Ana Sortun opened my eyes to the sophisticated culinary legacy of the Ottoman Empire. I soon began to investigate food’s utility as a lens into my culture, me being a daughter of Greek parents, and a granddaughter of Ottoman subjects.
I learned that although Greeks have lived throughout the Eastern Mediterranean for millennia, only a fraction of them actually lived in the place that became Modern Greece in the early nineteenth century. The Ottoman Empire was comprised of a diverse, multi-cultural population. The new republic quickly and successfully promulgated a nationalist agenda that rejected that diversity, along with any memory of its legacy, which resulted in an almost entirely homogeneous Greek population. This collective amnesia of the recent past enabled the newly constructed national narrative to leapfrog over time, and trace a straight line from the present back to a glorious past in antiquity.
The idea of Greek culture as a modern construction, in opposition to the Ottoman past was the subject I wanted to tackle in my thesis, using food and eating practices as a way to illuminate cultural differences and similarities. The problem was how to narrow the scope to a manageable, meaningful project, with sources to which I had access.
The answer came to me after seeing the 2003 film A Touch of Spice. It is the story of a Greek family from Istanbul who, for political reasons, are deported to Athens, a place as alien to them as anywhere on earth. Berated there as foreigners, they are considered positively unpatriotic for continuing to cook and consume “Turkish” food.
The film thus poses the question “what is Greek food – and by extension – how does one really define Greek identity?” An analysis of the film has allowed me to investigate the issues inherent in teasing out these questions of national identity, anchored in recent history.
Using the film has also solved the issue of sources: the film and cookbooks are my primary sources. Secondary sources include works in food studies, film studies, nationalism and Modern Greek history. The writing is finally underway. With a little luck, you will see me at graduation this May!
Practicing Gastronomy date change
Our first Practicing Gastronomy discussion with Alicia Towns Franken has been moved from Monday, March 21 to Monday, March 28. We hope you can join us as we kick off this discussion series on careers from all corners of the food and drink world. And if you've got ideas for future guests, please send suggestions to gastronomyatbu@gmail.com.
PRACTICING GASTRONOMY
Gastronomy in the Wine World with Alicia Towns Franken
Monday, March 28
808 Commonwealth Avenue, Room 109
4:45-5:45pm
Food news roundup: March 11
From around the web this week, a few bites of food news. Feel free to comment with thoughts, reactions and anything else of interest.
Massachusetts plagued by shortage of grocers, according to new report from MA Public Health Association
Food safety implications in the federal budget debate
NY Congresswoman introduces legislation to reduce antibiotic use in livestock farming
Can Pasadena farmers really trademark the phrase "urban homestead?"
Practicing Gastronomy with Alicia Towns Franken
by Erin Carlman Weber
On March 28*, we're kicking off the Practicing Gastronomy discussions, a series of informal monthly chats with professionals from all corners of the food and drink world. Here's a preview of our first guest.
Alicia Towns Franken thinks wine should be on every table, and that includes those in the delivery room. The Boston-based sommelier and consultant christened both of her children with a dab of Krug rosé moments after they were born. She brings this same principle of lighthearted pleasure, plus her vast knowledge of all things wine, to her pursuits as an educator through tastings, seminars and charity events around the country.

Alicia got her start at Back Bay steakhouse Grill 23, where she was working as a server to finance her neuropsychology studies at Harvard. Her path took a sudden turn down a different road the day she sampled a glass of wine that gave her goose bumps. She asked immediately to be part of their wine program, and eventually she was made wine director. During her tenure as sommelier, Alicia expanded their wine offerings from a two-page menu to a 1,000-bottle list, and earned accolades from Boston Magazine, Les Dames d’Escoffier, and Wine Spectator.
These days, Alicia is a wine consultant and works charity events, participating in seminars, tastings and panel discussions. She’s also an accredited Wine Location Specialist and an ambassador for the Center for Wine Origins, where she works to educate consumers, the media and policy makers about the importance of accuracy in wine labeling. To perform work like hers, Alicia feels it’s vital to be open-minded, with a strong sense of fun and flexibility, and to have a passion for sharing knowledge in an accessible and respectful way.
Alicia will be sharing much more of her wisdom on building a career in wine as our first guest in the Practicing Gastronomy discussion series. Please join us as we sit down with Alicia for an informal chat about her life as a sommelier, consultant and educator in the world of wine, including what it’s like to work a charity event that goes through 100,000 wine glasses.
EVENT INFORMATION:
Practicing Gastronomy with Alicia Towns Franken
Monday, March 28*
808 Commonwealth Avenue
Room 109
4:45 - 5:45pm
*Originally scheduled for March 21. Date revised March 15.
Northeast Food and Justice Summit

text by Erin Ross, photos by Annaliese DeNooyer
The Northeast Food and Justice Summit took place at Northeastern University over the last weekend in February. I helped organize a workshop for it with three Gastronomy students and three students from Chatham University’s Masters in Food Studies program. Running our workshop, which was called "Re-Defining Your Food Studies Vocabulary," was rewarding and fun, but attending the other workshops and meeting people at the conference was also an important component of the overall experience.
Conferences are amazing, exciting, and draining. They're so important as an opportunity to meet other people who are passionate about similar food issues, and they expose you to new ideas and causes at the same time. What was especially exciting about this particular conference was that a number of the attendees were high school students and college undergrads. It was so great to see how smart and educated these younger students were about the issues we so often debate in class.
The first night of the conference was an opening session with a variety of speakers—labor activists, youth workers for the Food Project, and even some poets. They helped to establish what they meant by food justice, and got everyone thinking about why we were all there. They also had us do a variety of get-to-know-you games, which allowed us the opportunity to find out who was attending the conference and why they were attending.

The next day had three workshop sessions. We were presenting in the last block, so I attended two earlier in the day. The sessions I went to were called “International Resistance: Food Sovereignty” and “A Conversation and Strategy Session Around the Industrialization of Black Food Culture.” The first workshop focused on the Via Campesina movement in Brazil, building a historical case for how the colonial food system developed and many ways still exists in the global south. The second session showed a clip from Byron Hurt’s yet-to-be-released film called “Soul Food Junkies.” We then broke into smaller groups to discuss how inequities in the food system are often drawn across racial lines, and took a look at how our own race factors into how we approach food access issues.
Our workshop went well, and was attended primarily by college students. We had an effective and dynamic conversation about the words we use in food studies, like culturally appropriate, hidden costs, and sustainability. I don’t think anyone came up with straightforward definitions, but it made everyone think about how hard it is to define the language we use.
I didn’t attend the closing session of the conference as I was beyond drained, and needed the opportunity to get some of my own work done. However, the conference gave me lots to think about, and I hope everyone considers taking time to attend similar weekends in the future!
Food news roundup: March 4
From around the web this week, a few bites of food news. Feel free to comment with thoughts, reactions and anything else of interest.
America's future farmers already dropping away
Bittman: Don't End Agricultural Subsidies. Fix Them.
Feds consider changes to raw milk rules
Winter farmers markets touted at regional conference in Sturbridge
The debate on how to define 'organic' food grows
Updated food recommendations, new student profile
Many thanks for the kind welcome our new student blog has received from the Gastronomy community. We welcome your feedback and involvement as the blog continues to take shape.
Be sure to visit the Cooking + Eating in Boston section, as it's been updated with your suggestions. And check out the new student profile on David Strock, who'll be graduating soon and leaving Boston behind for Spain.
Outside of the classroom: Avi Schlosburg & Slow Money
by Avi Schlosburg
I’m a second-year student in the Gastronomy program, and I’m focusing on policy and systems. I’m also a research and development intern at Slow Money. Slow Money is a nonprofit organization working to catalyze venture capital and investments into small food enterprises across the country. Their model is similar to Slow Food, with a large national umbrella organization that incubates smaller local chapters. These local chapters are bringing entrepreneurs together with investors, finance experts, and various food systems stakeholders to get money flowing into regional and local food systems.
When I moved up to Boston from Maryland in January 2010, I was scrambling around to find a job or internship relevant to my Gastronomy studies. I came across a position on Sustainable Food Jobs for an Executive Assistant/Social Media Expert with Slow Money and of course applied. I didn’t even get a “thanks but no thanks” and was pretty bummed about it, despite being wholly under qualified. Still, getting a position with an organization like Slow Money was basically the reason I picked up my life and moved to Boston.

After settling for a temp job at MBTA for the summer doing mindless work that had absolutely no relevance to what I was studying or wanted to do with my life, I decided I needed to convince Slow Money to give me another chance. I didn’t have anything to lose, so I emailed the contact person on their website and poured my heart out about how I wanted to create a just and sustainable food system and how my past experiences would help Slow Money do just that, which at the time was a bit of an exaggeration. Now, seven months later, I’m writing grant proposals, helping to organize their national event, and conducting extensive research for their nationwide communications efforts.
In all the work I do for Slow Money, I find myself relying heavily on the knowledge I have accrued in the Gastronomy program. From discussing Slow Money’s impact on the growth of alternative food systems when I write grant proposals to writing reports on the market and investment potential for CSAs, alternative supply chains, and organic farms, I find myself consistently using my library of books and articles from my last year as a student of Gastronomy.
The moral of the story? Boston University Gastronomy program + being creative/proactive/maybe a little pushy = working on things you actually care about.
This is the first in a series of posts from Gastronomy students on how they're putting their classroom knowledge to work and expanding their education through internships and volunteer opportunities. To write about your own internship, volunteer position or job, send an email to gastronomyatbu@gmail.com.
Food news roundup: February 25
Here are a few interesting bits of food news from around the web this week. Please feel free to share thoughts, reactions and anything else of interest in the comments section.
Mayor Rahm Emanuel's plan to address Chicago's food deserts and turn the city into a "Let's Move" metropolis
A victory for sustainable seafood advocates: Costco agrees to remove controversial seafoods from its shelves
Google throws its considerable weight behind the push for more home cooking with new Recipe View function
New study finds that a tax increase on high-calorie foods reduced the amount consumed, but only in the absence of calorie count information
USDA and private contributors make $5 million investment in East Coast broccoli
