Announcing the Fall 2011 Julia Child Scholarship Recipients

By Gastronomy EducationApril 17th, 2012in Awards

The Julia Child Scholarship Fund was first established at Boston University’s Metropolitan College by the Fisheries Foundation.

The scholarship award goes to a matriculating student in the Master of Liberal Arts in Gastronomy program who has been nominated by their instructor for outstanding academic work in their course.

Please join us in congratulating the fall 2011 recipients:

 

  • Emily Contois nominated by Rachel Black, ML 701, Understanding Food
  • Sophie Gees nominated by Warren Belasco, ML 711, The Many Meanings of Meat
  • Jessica Habalou nominated by Karen Metheny, ML 638, Culture & Cuisine: New England
  • Bradley Jones nominated by Rachel Black, ML 701, Understanding Food
  • Anina Kostecki nominated by Rebecca Alssid & Lisa Falso, Culinary Arts Laboratory
  • Sarah Morrow nominated by Rachel Black, ML 641, Anthropology of Food
  • Erin Powell nominated by Ellen Messer, ML 720, Food and Public Policy
  • Lori Vail nominated by Warren Belasco, ML 711, The Many Meanings of Meat

Food Activism Course Leads Student to Foraging for Wild Ramp

by Allison Schultz

It was ten a.m. on a Saturday morning, and I was raring to go—hiking boots? Camera? Check. Rather than blissfully slumbering through the early hours of what felt like my first week off in a long time, I was sitting in the tiny gift shop at the Tyler Arboretum in Delaware County, Pennsylvania, eagerly awaiting our tour guide.

Carole Counihan’s Food Activism class teaches anthropological research methods, and explores the concept of activism and its relationship to gastronomy. When I chose to research foraging for wild food as a form of activism, I did not give a second thought to my personal involvement with the subject, but it was on Steve Tessler’s “Critter Hunt” that the significance of my search really began to sink in.

Wild Ramp

Steve is both a mushroom hunter and wild ramp enthusiast. As I have come to learn, caution and certainty come first in the life of the mushroom forager. Though identifying the unique qualities of various shelving fungi was fun, Steve’s tale of a lip-numbing fungi-induced experience was discouraging. Ramps were what I longed for.

It has amazed me to discover that many varieties of plant life that I play-cooked as a child in Pennsylvania were edible. I could name them, but I was at least one generation removed from a parental unit that would allow me to engage in culinary experiments in the wild. Until that Saturday, that is. Steve explained that wild leeks are one of the first signs of spring, sporting long green leaves in little groups of three that look similar to the leaves of lilies, but smaller. A great debate surrounds wild ramps. What was once a well-kept secret has now been widely publicized, and annual ramps festivals threaten to wipe out the species in many areas. Picking one or two leaves per plant and leaving the bulb intact is a way to avoid wiping them out entirely. More

Food News Round Up: How to Procrastinate Like a Food Studies Student

By Gastronomy EducationApril 9th, 2012in Food News

by Emily Contois

If you’re like me, you’re currently working (and perhaps panicking a little) to craft compelling theses for your final term papers. This time in the semester tends to also coincide with more time than usual spent on Facebook and Twitter, as we procrastinate and somehow buy into the admittedly insane premise that the inspiration to complete our work can be found in our friends’ status updates. Well, work-life balance is indeed a never-ending quest; so feel free to click through this edition of Food News Round Up instead of writing your papers — and it just might jog something brilliant in your brain.

Government Food News to Consider

  • FDA responds to 1.1 million in support of GM labeling with: no response
  • Food fraud report commissioned by Homeland Security reveals most adulterated foods, including olive oil, milk, and honey

Foods Film and Art to View

  • Film, The Harvest, reveals nearly 500,000 children as young as six harvest 25% of our crops
  • Southern Foodways Alliance film, Pride & Joy, to launch September 2012
  • Artist Klaus Pichler showcases rotting food in still life series, offers food waste critique

International Food Issues to Discuss

Food History to Enjoy

Tricky Food Questions to Ponder

Emily is a current gastronomy student and graduate assistant, editing the Gastronomy at BU blog, January-August, 2012. Check out her research in food studies, nutrition, and public health on her blog, emilycontois.com

THREE SHOWS, TWO CITIES, ONE MOUTH

by Natalie Shmulik

Breakfast, lunch and dinner — that’s what you’ll get at any good food show. And, let’s be honest, that’s why most of us go. We sneak our way toward the less chatty sales reps for a sample of creamy bisque, a spoonful of ravioli, and a “please fill up the entire plastic cup” tasting of any alcoholic beverage. And yes, we are all eyeing the coupons for “free” products tucked behind the lavish displays of new-age culinary snacks. But, as hard as it is to believe, there is oh so much more to digest at these extravagant food shows than the food.

After attending the Canadian Restaurant Food Association (CRFA) Show, the New England Food Show, and the  International Boston Seafood Show in the first couple weeks of March, I couldn’t help but notice some distinct trends that every North American cook, shopper, and eater should be aware of. Even after stealing an hour of everyone’s sleep, daylight savings did not keep vendors from showcasing their best and boldest product lines. Electric oyster shucking, multi-colored caviar, and full sized chunks of shrimp, lobster, clam, and crab wrapped in buttery rolls doled out by tall, leggy Russian models made it clear that hungry eyes are worth more than hungry bellies.

Keeping up with demand, each of these shows was laden with new and advanced mechanized contraptions pumping, prepping, and pouring foods. Suffering from an intense food coma at the CRFA show, I hazily wandered into unfamiliar territory — a booth with no visible fare. As if they had crawled their way out of a Transformers film, robotic boxes filled with soups, shakes, and instant-meals hummed familiar sultry songs of convenience. From automatic cupcake dispensers to hotdog grills and the latest instant oatmeal dispensers, we have certainly come a long way from the pop and chip machines of yesteryear. You would think with all this technology we could finally perfect the everlasting gobstopper without any inflated-Violet tragedies. But alas, even in this wonderland of spectacular automations, Willy Wonka was nowhere to be found; after all, he too is replaceable.

I did occasionally wonder at the New England Food Show: amidst the French fruit purees, Italian sparkling beverages and coffees, Canadian cheeses, and Spanish cured meats, where were all the New England companies? Luckily there were some familiar New England edibles, including the always delightful Pete & Gerry’s Eggs (my favorite!), who displayed a cracked heirloom variety with its glowing sapphire yolk; a line surrounded Harpoon and its micro-brewery neighbors; clam chowdahs appeared by the bucket load; and locally roasted coffee companies kept serious snackers alert as they made their way from booth to booth.

The food show is truly a spectacular arena to taste, discover, and observe all the latest in ingredients, packaging, and technology. And although metallic hands are rapidly replacing human hands in food production, and getting a quick and hot dish from an electric box is tempting, I still like my machines to dispense money, not meals.

Read more about the latest food trends, according to Natalie -->  

Natalie Shmulik is a Gastronomy student. After successfully running her own restaurant for two years and working in one of the largest grocery chains in Toronto, Canada, Natalie ventured into the culinary world of New England. She is currently a member of the Gastronomy Students' Association and is working on several food related projects.

Food Trade Show Trends 2012

by Natalie Shmulik

Here are some noteworthy trends popping up and sticking around in the current marketplace:

  1. The Hempest: Starbucks is currently working on its latest cold coffee creation – a blend of hemp and coffee beans.
  2. Lactose and gluten-free: Whether for health, allergy and intolerance, or simply to jump on the bandwagon, people are continuing to flock to gluten and lactose-free products. These signs are beginning to appear as often as the prominent Kosher symbol.
  3. Lobster-less lobster rolls: That’s right, it looks like crab may be stepping on the tail of its bottom-feeding brother. And dare I say, it actually tastes better!
  4. Hot fish-dog? Even though seafood sausages have been gradually making their way onto the grill for years now, the omega-3 franks are actually starting to overtake their mammal-made predecessors. Aquacuisine Seafood has come out with a remarkably delicious Wild Alaskan Salmon hot dog that is completely gluten-free.
  5. Kitchenware is the new dishware: Frying pans, mixing bowls, and fry baskets are making their way out of the kitchen and into restaurant dining areas. From full-sized to personalized, watch out for some plate-free servings of your favorite meals.
  6. Red velvet: Yep…that’s still happening.
  7. Celebrity-endorsed: Of course famous faces have always been plastered on product packages for a boost in sales, so why should this year be any different? Celebrity chefs made appearances on a multitude of spices, sauces, and kitchenware, although the chefs themselves were nowhere to be found.
  8. Anti-slip mixing: Ever get tired of holding down your mixing bowl while whipping up some peak egg whites? The slip-proof Staybowlizer is here to save the day.
  9. Panela: Garnering attention and pushing its way into the “natural” sugar department, Panela, an unrefined cane sugar from Latin America, is said to have 50 times more minerals than white sugar.
  10. Merke: Move over BBQ, there’s a new spice in town. Merken, a Chilean spice blend, is making its way onto chips, in dips, and even kicking up the flavor in a variety olive oils.
  11. Automatics/ready to go: Oatmeal from machines, instant cupcake dispensers and vending machines serving everything from hot dogs to ice cream.
  12. Chai everything: From newly formed tea-pouches, loose-leaf steepers, flavored syrups and instant powders, chai took over the trade show. This tasty tea blend is gradually making the move from hot, milky beverage to solid snacks, including chai-infused popcorn, chocolates and trail-mix.

Natalie Shmulik is a Gastronomy student. After successfully running her own restaurant for two years and working in one of the largest grocery chains in Toronto, Canada, Natalie ventured into the culinary world of New England. She is currently a member of the Gastronomy Students' Association and is working on several food related projects.

 

April Food Events

By Gastronomy EducationApril 2nd, 2012in Events
Photo: Sarah Morrow; taken at a recent Gastronomy Student Association event

We're entering the last full month of the spring semester, meaning final papers, projects, exams, and graduation are just around the corner. As you endeavor to create masterpieces of food studies scholarship, remember that taking a break to refresh can actually increase productivity. So, join us at some great food events this month, including BU Gastronomy events: Gardening Club on April 2, a working paper presentation by Dr. Catherine Womack on April 3, and a screening of The Garden on April 19.

SUNDAY, APRIL 1

Who Fishes Matters, Chat & Chowdah Benefit for NAMA: If you've ever wondered, "Who catches my fish?" this event and benefit aims to be equal parts informational and delicious. Reservations required; call (508) 641-0878. $20 covers salad and chowder.

2-4 pm, nourish grill and bar, 1727 Massachusetts Ave, Lexington, MA

MONDAY, APRIL 2

BU Gastronomy Gardening Club: Join us for this season's kick off meeting. No experience required!

5-6p pm, 808 Commonwealth Ave, Fuller Building, Room 109

TUESDAY, APRIL 3

The Food Project Individual Volunteering: Tuesday, April 3 is the first day of volunteering on The Food Project's farms at the locations and times below. Register here to get started.

  • In Lincoln - Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays from 9:30-12:30 pm
  • In Boston - Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 9:30-12:30 pm
  • In Lynn - Tuesdays, Thursdays, & Saturdays from 9:30-12:30 pm; Thursdays from 8-10 am
  • In Beverly - Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9:30-12:30 pm; Saturdays from 9:45-12:30pm

BU Gastronomy Working Paper Presentation, Dr. Catherine Womack

Join us for a working paper presentation titled "Eating Salad is Hard: A Look at the Phenomenology of Fast Food Consumption" with Dr. Catherine Womack, who teaches Philosophy of Food (ML 614).

Selection from paper abstract: "In this paper, we use transcripts of 14 in-depth interviews conducted with student fast-food workers to identify some salient features underlying subjects’ experiences of fast food eating. We present results, discussing the features of satiety, satisfaction, feeling ill, as well as feelings of healthy eating. Greater knowledge about the content and concepts involved in unhealthy eating experiences can reveal new directions in food policy, nutrition education, and public health interventions."

5-5:45 pm, 808 Commonwealth Ave, Fuller Building, Room 109

Lobster: A Global History: As part of the Culinary Historians of Boston speaker series, Elizabeth Townsend, will present a talk on her book, Lobster: A Global History.

6 pm, Schlesinger Library, 10 Garden Street, Cambridge

THURSDAY, APRIL 5

Reign of Terroir in the Humanities, The Ideological Roots of Wine"Long thought by geologists and environmental scientists as embodying a direct correlation between the natural and gustatory worlds, scholars in the humanities are now critical of terroir’s often nationalist, exclusionist, and protectionist discourse. By speaking across disciplines and national fields, we can reach an understanding of terroir that digs below its surface aesthetic, and begins to recognize the phenomenon’s deeper roots."

Speakers Rachel Black (Boston University Gastronomy) and Edward Korry (Johnson & Wales) will discuss terroir and the international wine trade.

5:30 pm, Brown University, Pembroke Hall 305, 172 Meeting Street, Providence, RI

MONDAY, APRIL 9

Cultivating Food Justice: Race, Class and Sustainability: This is the final lecture in the "Leaders in the Environmental Movement Lecture Series" sponsored by Northeastern University's Environmental Justice Research Collaborative. It will feature Julian Agyeman, Professor of Urban and Environmental Studies at Tufts University.

5:30-7 pm, 10 Behrakis Health Sciences, 30 Leon Street,
 Northeastern University

FRIDAY, APRIL 13

Food Movements Unite! with Eric Holt Gimenez: Starting with Eric Holt Gimenez, Executive Director of Food First/The Institute for Food and Development Policy, introducing his new book Food Movements Unite!, this event promises a vibrant discussion of food justice, sovereignty, movements, and politics. A panel discussion will follow, spanning the uprising of food movements and politics, from the global to local perspectives.

6-8 pm, The Austin East Room, Austin Hall, Harvard University. 1515 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge MA 02138

THURSDAY, APRIL 19

BU Gastronomy and the Fenway Garden Society Film Screening of The Garden

Join us for a screening of The Garden, which tells "the story of the country’s largest urban farm, backroom deals, land developers, green politics, money, poverty, power, and racial discord. The film explores and exposes the fault lines in American society and raises crucial and challenging questions about liberty, equality, and justice for the poorest and most vulnerable among us." This event is co-sponosored by BU Gastronomy (including Potter Palmer's A Survey of Food in Film class) and the Fenway Garden Society.

6 pm, CAS B36, 725 Commonwealth Ave

MONDAY, APRIL 23

Culinary Chemistry: (Chick)peas on Earth: Email Eliad Shmuel at eliad[at]mit.edu if you are interested in the science of food and would like to join him in presenting a chickpea seminar at the Cambridge Science Festival:

Have some fun with food in the Museum's new lunchtime science series! Bring your lunch and something for dipping as you chat with MIT hummus enthusiast Eliad Shmuel about the MIT Hummus Experience and the science behind chickpea creations.

12:00-1:00 pm, MIT Museum, 265 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge

TUESDAY, APRIL 24

Professor Darra Goldstein Lecture: Professor Darra Goldstein, Francis Christopher Oakley Third Century Professor of Russian at Williams College and founding editor of Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture, will address the topic, "What We Talk about When We Talk about Food." Lecture sponsored by the NEH Distinguished Teaching Professorship.

7 pm, Boston University, School of Law, Barristers Hall, 765 Commonwealth Avenue, First Floor

SUNDAY, APRIL 29

Let's Talk About Sustainable Seafood: Another free event from the Museum of Science and Let's Talk About Food, this time featuring a crash course in "Seafood 101," offering a number of informed perspectives on threats to fish stocks and to marine ecosystems in the context of the New England economy. Admission is free, but register here.

7:00 pm, Museum of Science, 1 Science Park

Cooking a Sixteenth Century Meal Brings Food History to Life

by Emily Contois | photos by Katherine "KC" Hysmith and Rudolf Manabat

As students in Dr. Ken Albala's Survey of Food History class (ML 622), we were overjoyed that the Food and the City Conference brought him to Boston not only to deliver the conference keynote, but to allow us the opportunity to meet him in person and cook together a sixteenth century meal.

From our course lectures, we had learned that throughout history, specific ingredients have served as markers of social class that exude distinction. The most prestigious ingredients were often rare, expensive, and fashionable among the upper class at a certain time in a particular place. Rarity, cost, and fashion were unstable factors, however, meaning that the symbolic potential of ingredients evolved over time. The existence and expansion of trade networks, and globalization more generally, also played a significant role in specific ingredients securing elite status, while others did not.

Trends and fashion made certain ingredients signs of social distinction. The variables of rarity and cost influenced trends, which tended to occur in cyclical and reactionary patterns. Culinary fashions changed for a variety of reasons, among them political, economic, cultural, and even due to changes in weather and climate. Culinary fashion often changed as ingredients became more commonplace and inexpensive, thus increasing their accessibility for the middle and lower classes and diminishing their symbolic potential and power for the nobility. For instance, medieval cuisine was heavily spiced as a demonstration of wealth because spices were expensive at that time. By the sixteenth century, however, spices had become more affordable, and upper class cuisine used less spices, instead emphasizing simplicity. Baroque fashion in particular emphasized elegant simplicity, rather than ostentatious cuisine, which had been popular when spices were expensive.This was in contrast to middle class cooking in the sixteenth century, which was heavily spiced due to the new affordability and accessibility of spices.

Stewe Mutton

In our cooking class with Ken, the recipe for Stewe Mutton from Proper Newe Book of Cookery exhibits this transition well, as it not only calls for several herbs, but also a variety of spices: “cloves, mace, peper, saffron, and lyte salt.” As we discussed, a recipe from the sixteenth century featuring such an amalgamation of spices was one meant for the middle class for whom these ingredients were newly affordable, rather than for the nobility among which this style of seasoning had fallen out of favor.

Gathering together in the kitchen to cook, and then taste, sixteenth century recipes brought what we had learned from lectures and readings to life. The upwardly mobile aspirations of the sixteenth century middle class danced on our tongues as we contemplated the evolving meaning of specific ingredients throughout history.

Emily is a current gastronomy student and graduate assistant, editing the Gastronomy at BU blog, January-August, 2012. Check out her research in food studies, nutrition, and public health on her blog, emilycontois.com

Food News Round Up: Wrangling Action

By Gastronomy EducationMarch 26th, 2012in Food News

by Emily Contois

Welcome, gastronomes and cowboys alike, to this action-oriented (and alluringly alliterative) edition of Food News Round Up. Part of the news process is indeed passive — the pleasant and oft solitary experience of soaking up the news via paper or screen. But what is so key with food, is the desire to take the next step beyond the passive processes of perusing, reading, and contemplating to the impassioned action of politicking, organizing, and converging. So stick a fork in these delicious bites of news — and then wrangle some food action.

Peruse - and Politick - the Politics of Provisions

Read - and Reason - Rousing Research Results

Ogle - and Organize! - Organic Oddities

Contemplate - and Critique - if Calories Count

Digest - and Dive into - Food Desert Discussions

Curl Up to - and Converge - Food Culture Conversations

Emily is a current gastronomy student and graduate assistant, editing the Gastronomy at BU blog, January-August, 2012. Check out her research in food studies, nutrition, and public health on her blog, emilycontois.com

Portrait of a Young Food Photographer

By Gastronomy EducationMarch 21st, 2012in Academics

by Katherine "KC" Hysmith

Photo: KC Hysmith

There’s nothing better than food people. It's a sentiment that I share with our guest lecturer, food photographer Nina Gallant, from our food writing class. This idea is reinforced every week when I meet with my BU gastronomy peers, the food folks at places around Boston, our fabulous professors, and the affable and adorable Sheryl Julian. Each of these people helps create the wonderful food scene in and around the Greater Boston Area.

Sheryl introduced us to Nina Gallant and her photography at the beginning of the semester, and each week we eagerly awaited our “field trip” to visit her in person. A brisk walk from the Regina Pizzeria bus stop and down a darkly lit street lined by brick and glass warehouses led to Nina’s little studio. The hallways are painted a clean grey and her studio door was propped open invitingly. Inside the one room flat was a neat little galley kitchen, fresh white palette-like walls, and photography gear poised for the next shot.  Nina’s friend and colleague Meridith Byrne was there helping style a photo shoot featuring passion fruit flavored baked goods (which she graciously shared with us later!).

Together they went over the finer points of food photography, styling, and working in the food scene. They gave us pointers and then threw us into the fray armed with a camera, a handful of vegetables, fruits, or other produce, and any props we could procure around her studio or in her extensively stocked prop closet. Did I mention that she has her linens organized by color? If my closet is any indication, I’m on the right track with this whole food photography gig (and yes I know it takes much more than an OCD armoire).

The experience, to say the least, was superb. Nina and Meridith interacted like sisters, dressed like trendsetters, and answered all of our questions with saintly patience. Some of the best food scene role models a girl could ask for.

Nina & Meridith’s Food Photography Pointers

Photography:

  • Relate the hero (main food) to the smaller actors (supporting ingredients).
  • Use a piece of white paper/foam core/cloth as a reflecting surface to create more light.
  • Aim for light that comes from behind the subject, somewhere between 10 and 2 o’clock.
  • Think in terms of the full story. What you want to accomplish?
  • Recognize the current food photography trends and find which ones work with your style.
  • Use a wide open aperture (like F8) to achieve the fashionable select focus trend.
  • Look for repeating colors to help carry through a story line.
  • Take your time, take lots of pictures. That’s the beauty of digital!

Styling:

  •  Textures can work together.
  •  Use props or smaller ingredients to cover up flaws (like sauce on top of a pie).
  •  Start small and think before you act.
  •  You can always add more, but you can’t necessarily take away.

 Props:

  •  Use shallow bowls and dishes to see more of the food.
  •  Never underestimate the brilliance of white dishes.
  •  Small scale or tiny dishes help focus the shot.

KC is a Gastronomy student. All of the photos in this post are her beautiful handiwork. Follow her food adventures on her blog, The Young Austinian